Sea kayak trip, Arisaig bay

Emily and I, along with our friend Catriona, took a long drive up north yesterday- a 3 and a quarter hour trip to Arisaig.

For those who do not know this place, it is no exaggeration to describe this piece of coastline as one of the most beautiful places in the whole world. And no, I have not seen much of the wide world, but- well you will just have to go there yourself.

And if you do, then perhaps you might take a trip with the guys from Rockhopper out into the bay, where you will enter a world of blue green seas, silver white sands, islands and skerries emerging out of the tide and kelp beds full of seals and otters.

I have been wanting to try out a proper sea kayak for years. This year, Michaela bought me a voucher to use with Rockhopper for my birthday- ironically the same day as I had my serious canoe accident! We spent all day Saturday working hard in the garden, and I was tired, and to be honest, we have been so busy recently that I wondered whether I could cope with a 5AM start, and a long day in a kayak- but I am so glad we still went.

The weather was kind, the wildlife and scenery stunning, the company very agreeable and the experience was one that I would very much like to repeat.

As ever- here are a few photographs- including one of my second set of otters (within a few weeks!) Did not have my zoom lens on again though.

Otters- under Dunoon pier?!

I was admiring the dramatic sky over the Clyde this evening (about 9PM) so I took my camera down to Dunoon pier to take some photos-

There is a bit of a rig doing something to the water works- but it looks a bit like an oilfield has been found just off Dunoon!

I decided to change to the longer lens, and while I was fiddling (of course it would be whilst the camera had NO LENS!) swimming in front of me, less than 10 metres away, were two otters.

Yes- OTTERS!

I could not believe my eyes.

I attached the lens as fast as I  could, but this was my first effort, as they rolled over one another playfully-

Oops. Well it was very dark, and I was very excited.

I have never seen an otter in the wild before- and here they were, in Dunoon? Right in the centre, under the pier? On holiday perhaps?

I wondered whether I could be seeing something else- a couple of cats learning to swim? Mink? But actually, two otters at play that close are not easily mistaken for anything else.

They saw me watching them, and swam to the old pier, where they paused and watched me. So here are the photo’s-

I believe that otter have been spotted in all sorts of urban areas along the Clyde, even in Glasgow. But I have not heard of them being seen in Dunoon.

A couple of young otters on their way out along the Clyde perhaps? Doon the watter for a holiday?

Ettrick bay, Bute…

I was on Bute yesterday- and the combination of sunshine and dramatic sky was stunning. Even for a person of my limited photographic skills.

I took a turn out to Ettrick Bay at lunch time…

To be near such places is a blessing- but one that easily comes to be taken for granted.

My relationship to places like these has changed. They are no longer the end of a precious pilgrimage, but rather encountered in the corner of a glance in the middle of a busy working day.

So it becomes all the more important to me to see deeply and to be grateful.

Some days it is easier than others.

Nature, red in beak and claw…

What a lovely day.

A house full of friends and family all day- people calling in, people coming to stay, food shared, music played…

The old house feels once again like a place of welcome and refuge- a kind of oasis- which is what we always wanted for our home.

By way of contrast, Dunoon has been a rather scary place over the past few days. There has been a murder, a serious road crash involving young people racing cars, a woman jumping from an ambulance and,  more comically, the theft of an expensive yacht by a couple of drunk and bungling thieves. This resulted in a police search, and the millionaire owner taking off in his helicopter looking for his boat- only to crash into Loch Long when he found it (thankfully only sustaining minor injuries.) The police found the boat, with one of the would be pirates fast asleep in the scuppers!

As my mate Andy would say, the combination of sunshine, cheep booze and too much time on people’s hands is rarely a good one, and he should know as he has spent a lot of time trying to clean up the aftermath.

There is this contrast all the time with we humans- the beautiful creatures that we are, who are capable of doing such dreadful things to one another, almost on a weekend whim…

I wonder that we are surprised.

In my garden there is a tall tree, in which two magpies have built a nest. Over the past week or so, the branches of the tree have been the site of a battle between Mr and Mrs Magpie and a large black crow, who has been constantly trying to get into the nest and carry off the young chicks. For a while the Magpies seemed to be holding their own, despite one of them losing most of its tail feathers. But today, a half eaten chick lay on the ground.

It seems so cruel- but then it is a jungle out there, and birds need to eat.

All the more reason for us to hold to a different path, in the way of the Kingdom of God…

And to rejoice in the welcome and hospitality that we receive and give.

The bench…

I started a new thing today.

I love the beginning of new adventures- the chance to allow new things to unfold.

This one involves a commitment to meet with my friend Paul on a regular basis, and spend some time doing some deliberately spiritual practices, and writing about them. The idea is that we take a few hours and walk into the wilderness, talk, think and meditate.

On a bench.

This was today’s bench, in the hills above Dunoon…

Today we used one of my favourite psalms-

1God, I’m not trying to rule the roost, I don’t want to be king of the mountain.
I haven’t meddled where I have no business
or fantasized grandiose plans.

2 I’ve kept my feet on the ground,
I’ve cultivated a quiet heart.
Like a baby content in its mother’s arms,
my soul is a baby content.

3 Wait, Israel, for God. Wait with hope.
Hope now; hope always!

Psalm 131 (The Message)

As I reflect on these ancient words, I am concious of a soul that is not content, and a heart that is unquiet.

I am puzzled too as to what things David was writing about that were ‘too great’ for him (at least in the un massaged version.) He was a king after all- but perhaps a king all too aware of his failings.

And I wonder whether I really want to stop dreaming grandiose plans- it is part of who I am. I kind of believe that our dreams should lie just beyond our grasp- just outside our comfort zones…

But in all of this, I am so aware that I need to hold on to hope.

Hope for life lived in communion with good friends.

Hope for life that is rich and deep and saturated with the things of God.

Hope for life that measures it’s meaning not by a kind of success that rots the soul.

Hope for life that is life-giving to others.

And in awareness that in this life there are no guarantees- no easy short cuts. But there are moments when what has been grey can become saturated with new colour.

Like today, on this bench…

iPood…

I have been doing a lot of ‘wild’ camping over the last few years- often in places where poo-ing in porcelain is just not an option.

The rudiments of alfresco defecation have been dealt with in great detail in this book, so I will not revisit them here- much (I am sure) to your blessed relief.

However, I saw this product today, and it made me laugh…

Introducing- the iPood!

The strongest, lightweight, compact camp trowel in the world. Use it to deposit solid human waste in a hole dug 10-15 cm deep and at least 100 metres from water-bodies, camp, tracks, and watercourses. Being collapsible and lightweight, you can carry it anywhere and it even comes with a its own sack. It’s cleverly designed handle can store a gas lighter – or more realistically toilet paper. So don’t be shy, poo with pride!

Surely litigation is inevitable? Perhaps they should have a strapline like this-

Dump on those overpriced shiny electronics- get yourself a gadget guaranteed to supply the best downloads ever!

Suitable alternative toilet related captions gratefully accepted!

(I would like to make it clear that in no way does thisfragiletent endorse this product- should Apple decide to send their lawyers in my direction!)

Peregrinatio…

Tomorrow we set sail.

I am not quite sure what we will find when we land on Jura.

Neither am I quite sure how the whole social thing will work out- we are forming a temporary community of people who mostly do not know each other.

We are hoping to spend time seeking after God, but he can be so mysterious can’t he?

What I am reminded of is that old Celtic monastic tradition of peregrinatio, or ‘Holy voyaging’, which in practice meant to get in a boat, and simply to set sail. No destination planned, simply trusting to tide, wind and God. The destination of such a voyage was not geographical, but rather spiritual. The goal was to arrive at ones ‘place of resurrection.’ Arriving at journey’s end inevitably meant an actual physical place also however- and it is these places that still hold the memory of these voyages all over Argyll- in the place names, the folk lore, and also in the marks and mounds in the earth out on exposed headlands, or on tiny islands.

So, in anticipation of our own homecoming, I am going to re-post a poem that I wrote a few years ago, dedicated to that great voyaging monk, St Brendan

Lord stain me with salt

Brine me with the badge of the deep sea sailor

I have spent too long

On concrete ground.

If hope raises up these tattered sails

Will you send for me

A fair and steady wind?

Wilderness trip, Jura- next weekend…

A few of us are heading out to do some wild camping on the west coast of Jura this coming weekend.

We try to use it as a ‘retreat’- and share some deliberately spiritual activities, as well as a lot of laughter and the odd campfire…

I chartered a couple of boat runs to take us out there from Ardfern- the boat will go out through the amazing Gulf of Correvrecken with it’s world famous whirlpool, and drop us off on the wild north west of Jura. This is utterly wild country, no roads, few paths. Lots of wildlife.

Because (as always happens with these trips it seems) a few people have had to drop out at the last moment, we are down to around 11 people, and this means that we only need one boat run.

If anyone else still fancies coming along- it is not too late! It would be a shame not to use the boat we have booked…

Drop me a line if interested…

Landfall, Scarba, 2009

The old birch woods above the Kyles…

I have had a lovely day today.

It has been a gorgeous warm spring day, and I took a walk in the hills with Andy. We drove over the Cowal Peninsular to Colintraive- around a 20 minuite trip- and walked up through the farm into some lovely high country- broken craggy tops with little walkways and ridges to climb through. We disturbed only the odd sheep, accompanied always by lambs.

The views out over the Kyles of Bute were great- a little hazy, but full of the movement of yachts taking advantage of a favourable wind to fly through behind brightly coloured spinnakers.

We came down through some birch woods, just coming alive. We were surrounded by the noise of brooks and birds, and walked through a carpet of cowslips.

I have wanted to explore these woods for ages. They look so inviting from the road at any time of the year. In the winter they are almost purple-bare, but around the spring time, they start to wear a bright bright green as the buds come through.

A couple of years ago, a woman who was staying at the Colintraive hotel went for a walk somewhere in these parts. She was never seen again, and not a trace of what happened to her has ever been found, despite extensive searches. It must have been incredibly sad and difficult for those she left behind. She kept coming to mind as we walked. It must be incredibly difficult for the loved ones she left behind, but today, it did not seem to me to be such a bad place to have your last resting place. May she rest in peace.

A few years ago I took a little walk in these parts on my way home from work- and wrote a poem. So here it is!

With all the optimism of the early spring

I turned the car from the road home and looked to the hill

Taking the camera more for motivation I head for the high point over the Kyle.

I feel the old excitement in the smell of wild places

All around I can almost hear the soil coming alive

The whisper of the wind in the larches sounds like blood flowing

Sap rising

And, unconcerned as my unsuitable shoes take on water,

I climb through heather and the old years dry grass

Up through ancient Gneiss outcrops

Still holding the shape of their birth in lava poured out in days so distant

That there seems no point calculating.

My feet cut into slow growing mossbanks

And scatter the stalks of bracken

And in the moment, I fear that I bring a human rhythm,

In this place unwelcome, discordant

Drowning out the stillness

Oil on water

I notice blackened heather stalks swept by fire

Perhaps lit by a smouldering cigarette last summer

And remember that this place is everywhere marked by men

Close cropped by the sheep, the land curves towards

The regimented contour crop of Spruce trees in the valley below

And half hidden, there is the evidence of older dwelling places

Now memories in the soil

Barcodes in bracken and dead nettle

Feeding on the residual richness

Leached from these poor houses

Whose people drained away.

Then perspective shifts again

To the far horizons

Across the sparkling Kyle lies Bute

Then beyond, Arran’s hills rise above Lochranza

Still wearing winter white against the blue sky

I stood and gloried.

Awed by things much bigger than I

By creative forces far beyond my understanding

But by Gods grace

Not beyond my reach

Blessing received, I take photographs recording only human spectral light

Then scramble back to shiny car, and head, too fast, for home

Anxious to see my loved ones

Eager for my own slice of civilisation.

Aoradh wilderness trip 2010- update…

Just to confirm where things are up to with the plans for our trip to Jura on May 1st.

In discussion with the boat operator, I have opted for Pig Bay rather than Glengarisdale. This means that we miss out on having a Bothy, which may have come in useful, but there are caves, and I will take a tarp to rig up if we really need some shelter to cook/commune under. Glengarisdale was just too much of a risk in terms of safe landing and (more particularly) pick-up once landed.

In terms of numbers-

6 people signed up through ‘Emerging Scotland’ site.

3 of us from Dunoon

2 from Preston

2 others from Glasgow

Plus Terry coming out for the boat trip on either the send or the return

(And two dogs!)

Plus 3 possibles-

One bloke from Bute, who has said he wants to come.

Simon M?

Nick- does not think he can make it.

Should be a nice mix of people- and this time, there are 3 WOMEN as part of our gathering!

This gives us the nice problem of needing more than one boat trip. At present, I have provisionally booked an outward trip at 7AM and 8AM on the 1st. Have not been able to confirm returns yet for the Monday, but in the past these have been mid morning.

So- can you please confirm whether you are definitely coming.  If you say yes, then I am afraid you are committing to paying your share of the boat costs even if you drop out!

There are also still be a few places left if you know of any others who might want to join us yet… It would be good to fill the second boat as well…

Really looking forward to the weekend!