Last canoe/camping trip of the year?

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Just back from a little jaunt out to Lock Eck with the Canoe. Will, and my mate Simon and his son Andrew came with me. I a,most did not go as I have been feeling a bit under the weather this week- all headachy and migrainy. But the restorative power of wild places did me a power of good I think.

The autumn is progressing. Some of the old beech trees and oaks are already turning. And the stags were practicing their rutting calls in the early morning…

We launched at the Coylet Inn and camped on the other side of the loch. Weather was mixed, but we managed a campfire and a scramble up to explore the Paper cave and a couple of others. Always good fun- particularly for people like me who are six feet five inches tall and, shall we say, well fed ready for hibernation.

Also hit on some new campfire food- some basic bread dough mix (some flour and powdered milk with a bit of salt) mixed with a bit of water into sausage shapes, wrapped round a green stick, and toasted over  the fire. sprinkle on a bit of ketchup- and you have a lovely smoky bit of bread-cum-pancake. Lovely.

So- a few pics. (Taken with my new Pentax KM camera.)

Deer on the doorstep (and in the veg patch…)

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We have a few garden visitors.

A few vegetable munchers.

A few bark strippers.

The odd shy eye that catches the sweep of headlights.

Interlopers-

That are so hard to resent,

Because they are lovely.

So this morning, I peeked through a hedge with my camera, and there she was. Shy and still, with eyes that draw you in, and ears alert for a million dangers…

So, it is worth investing in a few well placed gates, but the loss of some shrubs and the odd cabbage, the shredding of my Gunera- these things I will bear to be so close to such creatures…

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The day was gentle and kind…

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What a lovely day.

One of those days that hangs like a blessing.

I have had a few migraine days, and this is the first when I felt more or less whole. So we spent some time playing music, reading, then got out into the garden to clear some trees and bushes.

I then took the bike out along Loch Eck, over the high pass and down the glen to Ardentinny. I met Michaela and the kids there and indulged in a cold cold pint. Mmmmm.

So we sat overlooking a sea so calm that you could see the wake of a boat fully two miles away rolling hopefully in our direction over water with the texture of silver orange peel. We were still out as the sun dropped below the hills and lit up the clouds all rose coloured. Smoke from the evening fires hanging in the pine trees like the mists of Avalon.

Time for chips I reckon…

New blog banner…

I took so many lovely photographs in the Outer Hebs that I decided to change the blog banner.

The dominating feature of the islands that I remember are the waves crashing on the empty white beaches, driven by the strong winds over the long reach of the wild Atlantic.

Sure, you may need a woolly hat along with your bucket and spade, but give me these places over the Costa del Sol any day…

And for further proof here are some more photo’s taken from beach of Halaman Bay, Barra. I promise to stop the holiday pics after this!

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All good things come to an end…

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So we are home…

After two weeks of travel, 13 different islands a holiday cottage, a posh hotel and a few campsites. We had sun, rain, wind and glorious sunsets. Waves crashed and then the water stilled to become a green blue mirror…

It was a great holiday, but it is always good to be back home.

We had an eventful last few days. The wind bent a tent pole on one of the tents, hence the posh hotel, which was a real treat (we stayed at the Isle of Barra hotel– quite a place!)

So, a few more photos, and then the let the memories linger…

postcards from the western fringe 8- beaches bikes and peat fires…

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Emily and I cycled to the beautiful Bosta beach.

There is a recreated Iron Age house there, and white sands, and clear blue green sea.

It was so lovely, we took Michaela and Will in the evening.

Some photos…

postcards from the western fringe 6- An Clisham…

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Today Emily and I climbed An Clisham, the highest mountain in the Western Isles, at 799 metres above sea level.

We almost did not go, as the wind and rain were rattling the windows this morning. However, it cleared up long enough for us to give it a go- but it was a VERY windy climb. We had to be very careful- taking small staggering steps for much of the last third of the climb.

Despite my recent post (Postcard 4) I was very grateful for the sketchy footpath to guide us stumbling down through the crags and bogs. Serves me right for over egging the argument I think…

I was messing around with some of the images on Picasa and put together this (not very creative!) you tube clip…

Postcards from the western fringe 4- footpaths…

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I took this walk out along the coast towards Bosta.

It was lovely. Wind coming in from the sea, sun shining through scudding clouds.

And I started thinking about footpaths. And theology.

It started with a boggy patch- you know the sort- a lush patch of green that looks all firm and supportive, but turns out to be a cunning thin skin over a foul boot sucking bog. Such things always remind me of Bunyan’s Pilgrim’s Progress. Christian wending his way on the journey of life, until he leaves the path again, and falls into the slough of despond.

It seemed to me that this way of understanding the walk of faith weighed on me for years. It is based on a view that God has proscribed paths for all of us, and should we step to the left or the right of it then well betide us. The best we could hope for, like Bunyan’s Christian, is to stumble back out of the wilderness back onto the golden path…

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Now paths are useful things, as long as

  • You know where you are going
  • The destination is the object of the journey
  • Others have been there before and marked the journey well

But what I found in my spiritual journeying was that the linear, proscribed paths I grew up with became no journey at all. What Bunyan’s followers handed down to me was a spirituality that mapped and measured the life out of each step. A Spirituality that had all the signposts, but had lost all the adventure. That became fixated on the destination, not the joy in the moment, and the companionship of the road.

Walking the mountains of Scotland, as opposed to England, means contending with a much wilder country. The few footpaths are faint, and easily confused with animal tracks. Making your way over rough land is hard work. But these landscapes are no mere backdrop to be drawn past the journey- they are the very place were we encounter the quickening that comes from being tested, inspired and humbled by real wilderness.

The old well trodden spiritual paths are falling out of use. People no longer appear to believe the old signposts, nor are attracted by the destination.

Perhaps the analogy of faith as footpath to be mapped and trod is a poor one. It certainly lacks something for me.

Perhaps the useful analogy should be less focussed on destination, and more on encounter, adventure and dependence. Of moving outwards, looking for the traces of Jesus and listening for the whisper of the Spirit in the wind and the waves.

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But in this wild country, we still need pioneers. We still need to connect with others who walk in the way…

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Postcards from the western fringe 3- now and then…

Lewisian Gneiss is the oldest exposed rock in the British Isles.

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2000 million years ago, massive forces twisted and melted this rocks into the crystalline shapes that became these islands.

It was another 1200 million years before multi cellular life forms crawled across the rocks.

Another 5oo million years passed, and along came the dinosaurs.

Mammals took another 430 million years.

And as for us, we humans- well we just got here yesterday. Well, around 6,000 years ago we found our way to these parts, and made a life on these rocks.

I took a walk today that kind of brought this home to me. We humans live lives as if we are important. As if we are significant. As if the world was made for us and owes us something.

But we walk in others footsteps… which like ours, are quickly fading…

Most of us have a folk memory of the scattering of people from these places during the clearances. All around the Highlands are the remains of old dwellings- the Blackhouses– built from the rock and earth, and slowly returning to the same.

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People left these houses around the turn of the 19th Century. Those who stayed- those who did not sail away to Canada or Australia- moved with the modern times into ‘modern’ houses. With fireplaces, and windows and solid floors.

But there is a new and unfolding diaspora from these islands.

As much as Highland culture and communities are being celebrated- they are still fragile. Traditional industries of crofting and fishing are all but gone. Young people still leave if they want to get ahead.

Old people, who still hold the old times in their stories and their songs. They too will soon be gone…

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Old gramaphone

Old gramaphone

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Gaelic Bible, open on the Mantlepiece.